People keep asking me to comment on Harrison Butker's clothes, as he seems to be a clotheshorse. Some note that his clothes look "off." In almost every instance, it's because his clothes are too small. I will demonstrate. 🧵 In some cases, the outfits look bad because of poor styling decisions. These are bad fabrics. If you are starting to build a better wardrobe, it can be a good idea to avoid hard-finished fabrics with patterns. Without a fuzzy nap, the patterns can have very hard lines.

People are misunderstanding my point. It's not that brown shoes are wrong with dark suits. It's that tan shoes, in particular, are wrong with dark suits. It's also not about naval history but rather regional traditions. I will explain in this thread. 🧵

https://twitter.com/johnkonrad/status/1791782046055948615

The suit was a British invention that spread around the world through the rise of Empire. So it's natural that England, and London in particular, set the standards for how to wear a coat and tie. During this period, certain traditions, cuts, and styles emerged.

Color works in a very specific way when it comes to fashion. But before I go on, I don't want my following thread to color your views. So let's start by asking: Which of these two outfits looks better to you? Choose before going on. 🧵

https://twitter.com/knowledgeprob/status/1791457257684713612

IMO, color should not be treated as a kind of abstract pseudo-science (e.g., blue looks good with brown). While those principles may be true, they are secondary to a more important consideration: the social language of clothing. What's the aesthetic you're operating in?

i dont understand how this is the alpha male look nowadays. if these clothes were any tighter, they'd be inside him

Again, I disagree that wearing tight clothes necessarily makes for a more masculine silhouette. People should pay more attention to how clothes create shapes on your body. And even if you have a very masculine, athletic figure, tight clothes make for a more feminine silhouette

The producer of Ben Shapiro's show reached out to me to see if I'd like to discuss Ben's attire on his show. Like with Piers Morgan, since Ben invited feedback, I will do a thread comparing him to a menswear icon—this time, Ralph Lauren's Polo Bear. 🧵

Unlike his colleagues, Ben's tailoring is not bad. Jackets have shape and fit him well. Compare his jacket to Peterson's, which looks like it was dunked in water (the small collar gap on Ben would be filled if he wore a dress shirt). Tonal seersucker in the second pic is cool

For a brief moment in 2018, J. Crew offered these "canoeist smocks" inspired by something elite British naval officers wore during WWII. The design was so cool—the kind of thing you'd typically only see from specialty Japanese brands.



The brand is in a much better position now than it was in 2020 (when it filed for bankruptcy). For a moment, it almost became like Old Navy. But the company's outerwear designs now are less risky, less exciting, and less complex. They use simple patterns and seams.

Who dresses better? Alpha males or aristocratic babies? Let's explore. 🧵

Tristan Tate's trousers are too slim to achieve proper drape. His jacket is also too short.

Andrea Casiraghi—who's fourth in line to the Monegasque throne—wears fuller-cut white trousers. His blazer ends halfway from his collar to the floor when he's in heeled shoes.

I've been toying with different AI programs to see if they can suggest good outfits. They can't. They all fail because they don't understand the cultural language of clothing, so their suggestions are generic. Outfits are no better than clothing subscription boxes; maybe worse.

https://twitter.com/awilkinson/status/1786906253333287056

IMO, AI will replace fashion writers who generate generic advice like this. And just as there's a market for this now, there will be a market for this sort of AI-generated advice. I just don't think it leads to good outfits or improves people's relationships with clothes.

It's a misconception that wool is necessarily uncomfortable in the summer. Or that linen is necessarily better than wool. Let me show you. 🧵 Linen's main property is that it wicks moisture from your skin, bringing it to the other side and then allowing the moisture to quickly dissipate. You can test this by washing two shirts—one cotton, the other linen—and letting them hang dry. See which dries faster.

I feel that there's a misunderstanding of the Met Gala and its purpose. 🧵 The Met Gala is, first and foremost, an annual fundraising event to raise money for the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute. Tickets to the gala are extremely expensive: $75,000.

Many men resist wearing high-rise trousers bc they fear they'll look like an old man. In this rubric, low-rise = modern; high-rise = Fred Merz. But low-rise pants change the ratio between your torso and legs, sometimes in weird ways. See Tucker Carlson, for example. 🧵





Even when he was young, Tucker favored low-rise trousers. You can judge this by his waistband's position in relation to his coat's buttoning point. For Dancing with the Stars, the costume dept put him in higher-rise pants. Ignoring the hem, I think the rise looks better on him

I see a lot of backlash here against men not wearing socks. IMO, this is a knee-jerk counter-reaction to the trend, which is as misguided as wearing something just because it's trendy. There is a better way to think about when you should wear socks. 🧵 As always, do what you like. But if you're wearing a formal suit with formal shoes, I think you should wear socks. Not doing so is incongruous and confusing. Or, at the very least, looks dated and twee in a 2012 menswear way.

I get this sort of question a lot: "How should I dress given that I'm XYZ?" The XYZ usually has something to do with age or physical characteristics, such as height, skin tone, or body shape. So, let me do a thread here. 🧵 I don't really believe you have to dress for your age. You may want to consider your lifestyle, which sometimes correlates with age. But I don't think you have to dress in any particular way. Here are some older guys wearing all sorts of stuff that I think is stylish

If you like quality for quality's sake, and you mostly wear casualwear, then I think you should check out the Japanese brand 45rpm. 🧵





I fell in love with 45rpm 15 years ago after coming across their lookbooks. Their lookbooks at the time were often shot by Eric Kvatek, a talented photographer who now works for Kapital. Here are some images from more recent lookbooks (my old image files are too low res)

Quality fabric is still being made today, but it often costs more than what people are willing to pay for clothes. I will give a few examples. 🧵

https://twitter.com/sumpfgas/status/1785553774834008232

In this old Brooks Brothers catalog from 1915, we see an entry for Chesterfields, a type of single-breasted "city coat" made with a velvet collar. At the time, Brooks Brothers offered these in Vicuna, Cheviot, and Elysian. Coats were lined in satin and piped with velvet.

Someone from @piersmorgan's staff asked if I would like to come onto Pier's show, Piers Morgan Uncensored, to talk about the state of his attire. Since he invited feedback, I thought I'd do a thread comparing his style to menswear icon Kermit the Frog. 🧵

Let's again start with the basics.

The core of any outfit is fit and silhouette. Pier's suit jackets often have lapels that buckle away from his chest and a collar that floats from his neck. This suggests his jackets may be too small.

Let me show you something. 🧵 The buttoning point is the topmost button on a two-button coat or the center button on a three-button coat. It serves as the coat's visual fulcrum, determines the narrowest part of a jacket, and is where the lapels bloom.

I disagree that you dress like Cary Grant. In this thread, I will list some of the ways in which your dress differs and why such important details matter. 🧵

https://twitter.com/TateTheTalisman/status/1783875443210227761

On Twitter and elsewhere, I often notice that people collapse men's style into very broad forms. A suit is just a suit, and pants are just pants. But in fact, tiny differences make a huge impact, and more attention should be paid to silhouette, shape, and detailing.

Along with keeping you warm and protecting you from the elements, our clothing performs other important functions: making us look good, communicating our identity, and speaking in a language that makes cultural sense. In tailoring, the number of buttons communicates something. 🧵

https://twitter.com/SaferHaywood/status/1784258188885348767

A one-button closure is considered formal. With the exception of Huntsman, a Savile Row tailoring house that has made it part of its house style, it is typically only seen on evening wear, such as dinner suits (aka tuxedos).

Here are two suits from the NFL Draft? Which do you like better?

Before reading on, please take the time to make up your mind independently, so you are not influenced by what I'm about to say. I will give my opinion below on which works better. 🧵

I should note I don't know anything about sports or these two men. The following is just commentary on the clothes, not them as people or athletes. Getting into the NFL is a massive accomplishment, and clothes don't take away from that. Congrats to both on their achievements.

Let's talk about how to find a good dry cleaner. 🧵 First, dry cleaning can be harsh on clothes, so it's best to minimize how often you dry clean them. Suits, sport coats, and wool trousers don't have to be dry cleaned often, but your frequency depends on your lifestyle (e.g., smoking, climate, etc).